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A SPECIAL CLICK AT PITTI UOMO 96 BRINGS FASHION TO THE MASSES

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To enter into the spirit of this post: Madonna, Vogue

pitti foto 96 2

Has finally fashion become inclusive? After standing apart for decades as a hobby for an extravagant elite, the spread of social media, digital previews and the e-commerce have made fashion more accessible than ever.  Gone are the days of the 1972 first edition of Pitti Uomo when companies showcased menswear collection to the buyers behind the magnificent but closed doors of the Hotel Villa Medici in Florence.  Fashion is finally a pleasure for all to indulge in.  Pitti Immagine fashion trade fairs are slowly morphing into a global phenomenon, as shown by the Summer edition special collaboration between Pitti Uomo and Instagram, the visual platform known for setting trends and influencer marketing.

Thanks to its three appointments held in Florence, Pitti Uomo (June 11-14), Pitti Bimbo childrenswear (June 20-22) and Pitti Filati fabrics and yarns (June 26-28), twice a year Pitti Immagine fairs explore the latest fashion tendencies and the contemporary lifestyles. The official opening ceremony of Pitti Uomo will take place in the Salone dei Cinquecento in Palazzo Vecchio on June 11 at 10,30am (by invitation only).  In its 96th edition, the International men’s trade show will be showcasing the collections of 1220 brands for fall-winter 2019/20 in the headquarters of the fair, the Fortezza da Basso.

The Pitti Special Click is the theme of the Summer fairs and sums up the “X Factor”, the sparkling energy brought out when Pitti people join together and give life to new projects and events. The Main Forecourt of the Fortezza will be transformed through the set design curated by lifestyler Sergio Colantuoni. It is the biggest layout ever realized at Pitti and involves a 1000 square meter prehistoric stilt house that evokes a serene human space.  The Pitti Special Click will also be presented through the fairs’ new advertising campaign by Italian photographer Emilio Tini.

Designers, buyers and press will gather the 13 sections of the Fortezza gaining  a complete overview of men’s fashion world, including the sportswear of I Play, the contemporary-classic menswear of Futuro Maschile, the collections by the six Tokyo Fashion Award finalists inside Touch! and the artistic perfumery of Hi Beauty.

Among the highlights at the Fortezza, there will be the presentation of Karl Lagerfeld’s  S/S 2020 collection accompanied by a live performance by London based street-artist Endless, who will paint a giant portrait of the late designer in the four days of the fair.  Also much expected is the debut at Pitti Uomo of the metropolitan line of AX Armani and the return of Drumohr, the formerly Scottish brand now part of Made in Italy, that will launch the Swimwear Capsule in the Main Pavillon on June 11, at 3pm-6pm.

The Pitti schedule involves the third edition of Scandinavian Manifesto that showcases the experimental fashion by young talents from Northern Europe in the Arena Strozzi.  For the GUEST NATION special project, organized by the Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery in collaboration with Shanghai Fashion Week, ten fashion designers will present collections in the Grotte area. In addition the Chinese duo Yushan Li and Jun Zhou, who established the experimental fashion brand Pronounce, will hit the runway at the Dogana (June 12, 5.00pm).

This edition marks also the first time at the Spazio Carra of Coin Exclesior, a contemporary department store with a selection of brands from the Italian upmarket department store chain dedicated to the worlds of apparel, home decorations, accessories and beauty.  The same space will host “Passions Today’s man and the future of retail”, a talk with entrepreneurs and international talents, moderated by Timothy Small, director of Esquire Italia magazine (June 12, 2,30pm).

A touch of Hollywood glamour comes to Florence through the presence of Gabriella Pescucci, the recipient of the Academy Award for Best Costume Design for the film The Age of Innocence (1993) and winner of two Emmy Awards for the historical series The Borgias (2011 and 2013).  Together with costume designers Alessandro Lai and Carlo Poggioli, she will run “La Stoffa dei sogni” (Dreams fabric), a workshop in costume designer for tv and cinema (June 11, 2.15 pm in the Area Monumentale).

Some special guests will highlight this edition.  Givenchy, a star of French elegance founded by the legendary Count Hubert in 1952, is Pitti Uomo Guest Designer.  Clare Waight Keller, the British stylist and artistic director of the LVMH group maison since spring 2017, will present on Wednesday 12 June at 7,30pm the new menswear collection with a special event, whose details are yet to be unveiled.

Sterling Ruby is the Special Guest at Pitti Uomo no. 96.  The multifaceted American artist is famous for an activity that spans sculpture, ceramics, video, photography, textiles, and painting.  His works are included in some public collections of the most prominent museums, such as the Museum of Modern Art  in New York and the Tate Modern, London.

After various collaborations with Raf Simons, Dior, and Calvin Klein, Ruby is ready to present the first collection by his fashion brand brand S.R. STUDIO. LA. CA. at a special event at Le Pagliere (June 13, 6pm).

The Pitti experience continues outside the Fortezza with runway shows and special events in selected locations of Florence.

Piazza della Signoria with the restored fountain of Neptune by Ammanati will be the stage for “Florence Calling” the world debut of the new Spring-Summer 2020 menswear collection by Salvatore Ferragamo on June 11 at  7,30pm.

MSGM, the clothing and accessories brand founded in 2009 by Massimo Giorgetti, will celebrate its first ten years with a unique event at the Mandela Forum on June 13, at 10am.  The Sicilian designer Marco De Vincenzo, the Pitti Italics Special Event for this edition, will launch his first men’s collection with a fashion show at the Tepidarium del Roster (June 12, 10am).

At the Museo della Moda e del Costume of Palazzo Pitti, the Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery will present the exhibition “Romanzo breve di Moda Maschile – A Short Novel on Men’s Fashion” (12 June – 29 September, opening 11 June, 6pm) by Olivier Saillard.  A journey through three decades of men’s fashion from 1989 to the present through the lens of Pitti Uomo, the project-exhibition is conceived as a tribute to Marco Rivetti, President of Pitti Immagine from 1987 to 1995.

At the 16th Century Palazzo Larderel a new exhibition of the One Planet One Future ongoing artistic eco-friendly project founded by Anne de Carbuccia,  will open from June 11th to June 30th.

Also open to the public is “If I could, unless we”, a nightwalk through Manifattura Tabacchi (June 11-12-13-14 from 9,30pm to 12am).

Other appointments will be hosted in some of the most beautiful Florentine palaces, to mention a few the presentation of the new Canali collection staged at Palazzo Ximènes (June 12th, from 5:00pm to 9:30pm) and the happening by Jacob Cohen at the Palazzo Gondi (June 11, from 6.30 pm to 9.00 pm).

Two historical Florentine labels will be the protagonists of special events during Pitti Uomo.  Gucci will inaugurate the new layout of the Gucci Garden Gallery inside the historic Palazzo della Mercanzia in Piazza della Signoria (June 11, 5pm) and Emilio Pucci will present “Unexpected Pucci”.  Published by Rizzoli and edited by Laudomia Pucci, the book is about the Pucci world beyond fashion through art, furniture and lifestyle (Palazzo Pucci, June 12, 10am-1pm; the exhibition will be on display until June 14th, by appointment).

On June 13th at 7,30pm the most attention catching event of Pitti Uomo will be on show.  Carine Roitfeld, the former editor-in-chief of Vogue Paris and founder of CR Fashion Book and CR Studio, will present her first CR Runway official fashion show.  The event will celebrate the 90th anniversary of Luisa ViaRoma, the Florentine concept store.  In the breathtaking stage of Piazzale Michelangelo overlooking the city, five thousand guests will watch a 90s themed multibrand show with 90 Roitfeld’s favorite looks from fall-winter 19 collections sported by some of the most iconic super models, such as Eva Herzigova, the Hadid sisters and Irina Shayk.  A special performance by Lenny Kravitz will close the event.

Check the complete program on the website www.pittimmagine.com

 

 

 

 

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A big meow in a pink bubble for Pitti Bimbo 88

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To enter into the spirit of this post / Per entrare nello spirito del post: Avril Lavigne, Hello Kitty.

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The only thing better than a birthday party is a double birthday celebration!  This year marks the anniversary debut of two children’s icons: Barbie and Hello Kitty.  The world most famous doll was introduced by Mattel at the New York Toy Fair on 9 March 1959.  The Japanese cartoon character designed by Yuko Shimizu will be 45 next Fall. The Winter edition of Pitti Immagine Bimbo fair turned the international spotlight on both of them.

For the full article, that I wrote in English for the Italian daily newspaper’s site Repubblica.it, clic here.

For the first press release on Magenta Florence, clic here.

Barbie Pitti

 

Meglio di un compleanno? Due compleanni! Quest’anno si festeggiano quelli di due icone dell’universo infantile: Barbie e la tenera Hello Kitty. La bambola più famosa del mondo fu presentata da Mattel alla Fiera del Giocattolo di New York il 9 marzo 1959. Il cartone giapponese disegnato da Yuko Shimizu compirà invece 45 anni il prossimo autunno. Tra i tanti eventi, l’88esima edizione di Pitti Immagine Bimbo ha puntato i riflettori anche su di loro.

Per l’articolo completo, che ho scritto in inglese per Repubblica.it, cliccate qui.

Per l’articolo originale su Magenta Florence, cliccate qui.

hello_kitty

 

Eco is en vogue at Pitti Uomo 95

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To enter into the spirit of this post / Per entrare nello spirito del post: Sylvian & Sakamoto, Heartbeat.

pitti-uomo 2019

After years of fast fashion, targeted to follow the trends in the quickest and cheapest way possible, the industry’s standards are rising.  Eco fashion is gaining growing attention worldwide, as shown by Because there is no Planet B, the eco-friendly mission of Ecoalf, a pioneer in the world of sustainable fashion.

For the full article, that I wrote in English for Repubblica.it, clic here.

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Dopo anni di moda usa e getta, studiata per seguire i trend nel modo più rapido ed economico possibile, produttori e consumatori hanno aperto finalmente gli occhi sui suoi effetti devastanti a livello globale. La moda green è sempre più popolare; un esempio è Because there is no Planet B, la missione eco-friendly di Ecoalf, pioniere nel campo della sostenibilità.

Per l’articolo completo, che ho scritto in inglese per Repubblica.it, cliccate qui.

Dressed in Pucci a stylish Mini-Me is always on point

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To enter into the spirit of this post / Per entrare nello spirito del post: David Garrett, Viva la Vida.

Emilio Pucci Junior  FW 19-20 (2).JPG

Sometimes breakfasts don’t include Truman Capote or huge windows on the Fifth Avenue, epic ones also happen in an historic palace of Florence.

During Winter edition of Pitti Immagine Bimbo international children’s clothing fair “Breakfast at Palazzo” presented the Fall/Winter 2019/2010 Emilio Pucci Junior collection at Palazzo Pucci.

Radiant, joyful, vibrant, Emilio Pucci style is the perfect combination between high class sophistication and wearable fashion.  It will come as no surprise that in 2017, after decades of success in the adult market, Pucci launched its own junior line for girls aged 0 to 14 years in partnership with children’s wear clothing Italian company Simonetta, founded in early 50’s by Maria Bianca Mazzarini Stronati.

A milestone in the Made in Italy scenery and in the collective imagination, Pucci brand was born thanks to Marquis Emilio Pucci di Barsento, crowned by fashion world “The Prince of Prints”.  An Olympic skiing champion, member of the post-war jet set that replaced the cafè society in establishing a stylish and wealthy lifestyle, he used his American education and well-travelled upbringing to start a fashion career in 1947.

He encountered popularity first with a photo of him and his friend wearing ski outfits that he designed published for Harper’s Bazaar USA by enthralled Diana Vreeland.   His first boutique “La Canzone del Mare” (The Song of the Sea) opened on the island of Capri in 1949, then he set up his atelier in Pucci family’s historic palace in Florence.  Since the early 50s he designed wearable yet chic clothing for a sophisticated clientele including Hollywood movie stars Greta Garbo and Marilyn Monroe, and famous jet setters, such as Gloria Guinness and Babe Paley.  Soon the colourful prints based on abstract designs and graphic patterns became his signature style.  Each brings the memory of Marquis Pucci’s trips to the sunny landscapes of the Mediterranean and to enchanting exotic locations.

Nowadays  Pucci’s legacy continues with Emilio’s daughter Laudomia Pucci, Image Director of the Pucci label. 

Featuring the iconic Pucci prints, such as Gaiola, Ellisse, Astana e Burle, and blended with the finest tailoring of Simonetta, Emilio Pucci Junior collection can be found in the single brand boutiques and in the Emilio Pucci online store, as well as in selected multi-brand and exclusive department stores.

Emilio Pucci Junior FW 19-20 (1).JPG

Non è detto che per le migliori colazioni sia necessario evocare Truman Capote o le scintillanti vetrine sulla Quinta Strada, ce ne sono alcune altrettanto memorabili servite in un palazzo storico di Firenze.

Durante la scorsa edizione di Pitti Immagine Bimbo, con “Breakfast a Palazzo” si è svolta a Palazzo Pucci l’attesissima presentazione della collezione Emilio Pucci Junior e Newborn Autunno-Inverno 2019/2020.

Luminoso, allegro, vibrante, il marchio Emilio Pucci definisce la perfetta combinazione tra squisita eleganza e stile effortless. Non può quindi stupire che nel 2017, dopo decenni di successi internazionali, Pucci abbia lanciato una linea di moda per bambine dai 0 ai 14 anni in collaborazione con la storica azienda di abbigliamento Simonetta, fondata agli inizi degli anni Cinquanta da Maria Bianca Mazzarini Stronati.

Pietra miliare del Made in Italy e icona dell’immaginario collettivo, il brand Pucci nasce per iniziativa del Marchese Emilio Pucci di Barsento, incoronato dal fashion system “Principe delle Stampe”. Campione olimpico, membro di quel jet-set che succede alla cafè society nel creare uno stile di vita ricercato per il bel mondo, utilizza l’educazione internazionale e gli studi negli Stati Uniti per intraprendere una carriera nella moda nel 1947.

Il primo incontro con la popolarità avviene quando una sua fotografia in compagnia di un’amica, mentre indossano entrambi tute da sci da lui disegnate, é pubblicata su Harper’s Bazaar da un’entusiasta Diana Vreeland. Nel 1949 Emilio Pucci apre la prima boutique “La canzone del mare” a Capri e subito dopo un atelier nel palazzo di famiglia di Firenze. Negli anni Cinquanta il suo stile chic e easy appassiona attrici hollywoodiane (due per tutte: Greta Garbo e Marilyn Monroe) e figure del jet set, come Gloria Guinness e Babe Paley.

Le stampe colorate basate su disegni astratti e motivi grafici sono ormai il suo tratto distintivo, ognuna di esse ispirata ai numerosi viaggi del Marchese nelle assolate terre del Mediterraneo e nelle località esotiche più suggestive. La figlia Laudomia Pucci ha ereditato la direzione del brand.

La collezione Emilio Pucci Junior, con le stampe iconiche del marchio Pucci, come Gaiola, Ellisse, Astana e Burle, è in vendita nelle boutique monomarca, nell’Emilio Pucci store online e nei punti vendita selezionati.

Emilio Pucci Junior FW 19-20 (4)Emilio Pucci Junior FW 19-20 (3)

Laudomia Pucci, Image Director of Pucci, and Mila Zegna Baruffa of Simonetta

Laudomia Pucci, Deputy Chairman and Image Director Emilio Pucci, and Mila Zegna Baruffa of Simonetta

Tiffany is always a good idea!

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To enter into the spirit of this post/Per entrare nello spirito del post: Kovacs, My love.

tea tiffany

There’s nothing like a blue box with a white ribbon to embody the joy of the festive season.  The Tiffany Blue Box was born from an intuition by Charles Lewis Tiffany, who opened the first store at 259 Broadway in New York.  It wasn’t long before people started asking to buy only the boxes, amazed by their bright turquoise.  The color now has an own name and it is called “1837 Blue” in the Pantone color system.  The number marks the year in which Tiffany was founded.

Soon the creator of Tiffany became a legend: dubbed as “The King of Diamonds” he bought jewels from European aristocrats and deposed royalty, in particular he purchased the French Crown gems at an auction in Paris.  In 1886 he introduced the first engagement ring in the signature blue box as we know it today.  The purpose was to demonstrate the extraordinary beauty of Tiffany’s brilliant-cut diamonds.

Charles’ son, Louis Comfort Tiffany, was famous for his jewels shaped in organic forms and the glass and enamel works that are still a distinctive symbol of the Art Deco era.

Later in the twentieth century the brand made a statement with fine silver and yellow diamonds.  It also started collaborating with imaginitive designers, such as Jean Schlumberger, Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso.

In 1961 the movie Breakfast at Tiffany’s brought the magic atmosphere of the store on the Fifth Avenue to a larger audience through the silver screen.

Recently Tiffany keeps casting its spell through exhibitions at the Met in New York and the British Museum in London while becoming the object of a dedicated literature, with writers like Karen Swan and Melissa Hill who promptly followed in Capote’s path.

Surrounding yourself with beautiful things has never been more suitable!

albero tiffany

The Christmas Tree at the Florence store/ L’albero di Natale nel negozio di Firenze

Niente come l’iconica scatola blu col nastro bianco ha il potere di trasportarci nella magica atmosfera delle feste. La scatola di Tiffany nacque dall’intuizione di Charles Lewis Tiffany,  che aprì la prima gioielleria al 259 di Broadway a New York.  I clienti, affascinati dal turchese brillante delle confezioni, arrivarono a chiedere di comprare soltanto le scatole. L’inconfondibile blu Tiffany ora ha un nome nella tabella dei colori Pantone, il “Blu 1837”, il cui numero ricorda la data di fondazione del negozio.

Presto il creatore di Tiffany divenne una leggenda: soprannominato il “re dei diamanti” comprò gioielli dalla nobiltà europea e dalle famiglie reali decadute. Una delle sue imprese più famose fu l’acquisto delle gemme della Corona francese a un’asta parigina. Nel 1888 ideò l’anello di fidanzamento come lo conosciamo adesso. Il suo intento era mostrare la straordinaria bellezza dei diamanti Tiffany con il taglio a brillante.

Il figlio di Charles, Louis Comfort Tiffany, divenne famoso per i suoi gioielli dalle forme ispirate alla natura e per gli oggetti di vetro e smalto che sono tuttora un simbolo dell’Art Deco.

Nel ventesimo secolo il marchio ha acquistato riconoscibilità attraverso la lavorazione dell’argento pregiato e il commercio dei diamanti gialli. Notevoli sono anche le collaborazioni con talentuosi artisti, come Jean Schlumberger, Elsa Peretti e Paloma Picasso.

Nel 1961 il film “Colazione da Tiffany” ha portato al grande pubblico, attraverso lo schermo, l’atmosfera incantata del negozio sulla Quinta Strada.

In tempi più recenti la magia di Tiffany continua a vivere nelle esibizioni al Met di New York  e al British Museum di Londra, nonché nei romanzi degli scrittori, tra cui Karen Swan e Melissa Hill, che hanno seguito la lezione di Truman Capote.

Circondarsi di cose belle non è mai sembrato più appropriato!

elsa peretti tiffany

 

 

Chasing dreams under the Leaning Tower

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To enter into the spirit of this post / Per entrare nello spirito del post: Woodkid, I Love You (Quintet Version).

volpe

Are we all characters in one of God’s dreams?  At the opening of the 1996 novel “Reality and Dreams” by iconic writer Muriel Spark, this unanswered question brings up a topic that constantly returns in literature.  As everyone knows, nothing has more power than a book to transport readers to another place.  Or, to borrow from Rosa Montero, the awarded novelist and journalist for El País, “novels are like dreams that you dream with your eyes open”.

There has been much to talk about at the 16th edition of the Pisa Book Festival, whose motto is “Chasing Dreams”(A caccia di sogni).  The promise is to bring visitors in a dimension where the real and the dreamlike cross each other.

For the full article, that I wrote in English for Repubblica.it, clic here.

The leaning tower of Pisa

Peter Jackson, The Leaning Tower of Pisa, 1985

Siamo tutti attori in un sogno di Dio? Questa frase, posta in apertura del romanzo “Realtà e sogni”, scritto nel 1996 dalla leggendaria scrittrice scozzese Muriel Spark, riprende uno dei temi più frequenti della letteratura di tutti i tempi. In effetti, i libri sono il mezzo più potente per viaggiare con la fantasia. “I romanzi sono sogni che si fanno a occhi aperti” ha detto Rosa Montero, pluripremiata scrittrice spagnola e giornalista di El País, che si è soffermata più volte sulla questione.

Il Pisa Book Festival, giunto alla sedicesima edizione, ha scelto come motto “A caccia di sogni”, promettendo di portare i visitatori in un’altra dimensione, dove i confini tra realtà e sogni sono assottigliati fino ad annullarsi.

Per l’articolo completo, che ho scritto in inglese per Repubblica.it, cliccate qui.

“Bringing the best to everyone” in Florence at the opening of the new profumerie Aline

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To enter into the spirit of this post / Per entrare nello spirito del post: Trixie Whitley, Breathe You in My Dreams.

foto map

From September 14-16, 2018 Pitti Fragrance, the Pitti Immagine fair-event dedicated to the world of exquisite perfumery, was on show in Florence.  With a packed calendar of events the Tuscan city became the stage for a complimentary tribute to the enthralling charm of perfumes and scents.  The olfactory itinerary map Fragrances Paths led insiders or simply enthusiasts through museums, gardens and shops to explore over 190 international brands, including new talents and independent houses of artistic perfumery.

Among the highlights of this edition, the opening of a new Aline boutique in the stunning Piazza S. Giovanni, in partnership with the Estée Lauder Companies is a must see.   The opportunity to experience a multi-sensorial journey through beauty care is available.  It represents a complete overview of the Estée Lauder Companies beauty brands: Estée Lauder, Clinique, La Mer, Tom Ford Beauty, By Killian, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, Ermenegildo Zegna and Aerin.

“Bringing the best to everyone we touch and being the best in everything we do”, the mission statement of the iconic company founded in New York in 1946 never felt so good.

kilian aline

Aerin aline 2

tom ford aline

Dal 14 al 16 Settembre 2018 Firenze ha ospitato Pitti Fragranze, il salone evento di Pitti Immagine dedicato al mondo della profumeria artistica. Attraverso un fitto calendario di appuntamenti il capoluogo toscano è diventato il palcoscenico ideale per celebrare il fascino indiscusso di profumi e fragranze. Uno speciale itinerario olfattivo cittadino ha coinvolto musei, giardini e boutique del profumo e ha portato appassionati e curiosi a esplorare più di 190 marchi tra le maison e i brand più qualificati, ma anche tra i talenti più interessanti e i nomi indipendenti della profumeria internazionale.

Uno degli eventi speciali di questa edizione è andato in scena nella centralissima piazza San Giovanni con l’inaugurazione della nuova Profumeria Aline in collaborazione con The Estée Lauder Companies. Il nuovo punto vendita rappresenta l’occasione per sperimentare un viaggio multisensoriale nel mondo della cosmesi e conoscere i marchi dell’iconico brand fondato a New York nel 1946: Estée Lauder, Clinique, La Mer, Tom Ford Beauty, By Killian, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, Ermenegildo Zegna and Aerin.

“Offrire il meglio a ciascuno perché diventi la migliore versione di se stesso”: il motto storico della compagnia non è mai stato così attuale.

malle aline