To enter into the spirit of this post: Depeche Mode, Walking in my shoes (Devotional Tour). (Clic here to read a shorter version of this article appeared on the Italian daily newspaper’s site, Repubblica.it)
Pitti Immagine Uomo 92
June 13-16: Pitti Imagine Uomo 92. Fortezza da Basso and other venues.
If “Men are like bulls, they cannot resist the red sole”, according to Christian Louboutin, then prepare yourself for even more temptation from the Parisian shoe designer’s arrival at Pitti Immagine, the semi-annual fashion trade fair held in Florence in the month of June. Famous for his red-soled stilettos, he has just debuted a new collection of men’s sneakers inspired by 90’s basketball and will be the host of a special tournament in the historical center of the city, with eight competing teams from all around the world and a series of masterclasses. (June 13 in Piazza Santa Maria Novella from 9 am to 6 pm).
Not just sport, but even flowers are the focus of this season. The theme is BOOM, PITTI BLOOMS for Pitti Uomo 92 (June 13-16), Pitti Bimbo 85 (June 22-24) and Pitti Filati 81 (June 28-30), the three traditional shows where designers, buyers, models and visitors meet to explore the latest itineraries of fashion and give life to the tendencies of the future. This season blooming flowers are celebrated as a metaphor for new creative ideas that sprout easily in fertile ground. In this witty interpretation they become symbols of joy and color, even stylized as computer icons. Inflatable plastic flowers, gigantic sculptures, flying bouquets will invade the city and the Fortezza da Basso, the primary seat of the events, and other selected locations in the city in a special project curated by the lifestyler Sergio Colantuoni. From 13 – 19 June, the department store La Rinascente in Milan will occupy for the first time a corner of Pitti Uomo with a special pop up store and a showcase of a capsule collection of accessories and basic items.
The 92nd edition of Pitti Uomo, the international trade platform for men’s fashion and lifestyle, will display an impressive 1220 collections and brands for Spring/Summer 2018, in a packed program with shows, pop up stores and digital activities.
This edition marks the return to Pitti Uomo of the British legend, Sir Paul Smith, who will present his Spring/Summer 2018 PS by Paul Smith collection, strongly influenced by sportswear and his love of cycling (Padiglione delle Ghiaia, June 14, 4pm).
Swiss luxury brand Bally will debut at Pitti Uomo, launching its S/S 2018 retro sneakers collection, that includes four replications of its most successful models, from hip-hop era classics to smashing tennis shoes and sporty runners, in a special installation located in the fair’s Main Forecourt (June 14, 6.30pm-9 pm).
Australia is the GUEST NATION. The Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery and The Woolmark Company will highlight eight young Australian designers and share their collections in the special Spazio Carra area in the Main Pavilion (June 14, 11 am).
Outside the Fortezza, JW Anderson, SPECIAL GUEST of Pitti 92, will present the Italian debut of his clothing line influenced by the contemporary art and the youth culture at the spectacular Villa La Pietra on the Florentine hills (June 14, 7 pm). The Northern Irish designer is the Creative Director of Loewe (the Madrid-based LVMH luxury brand) and recipient of a series of prestigious awards, including an historic double award for “Menswear” and “Womenswear Designer of the Year” in 2015.
The Florentine designer Federico Curradi, presenting its S/S 2018 menswear collection, will pay a tribute to the importance of his native city in a show that includes references to local craftsmanship and calcio storico (historical football) at the Museo Bardini (June 14, 9am). The former railway station of Florence, the Stazione Leopolda, will be the stage for the fashion show of the Japanese designer Yoshio Kubo (June 15 at 12 am).
Among the more anticipated events of Pitti 92 is the ninth edition of “Who Is On Next? Uomo”, the competition dedicated to the search of new Italian talents in men’s fashion. The winner of this year will be announced on 13th June during the Pitti Immagine Uomo 92 opening ceremony in Palazzo Vecchio.
Women’s clothing will be also on display by Hugo Boss’ brand HUGO, that will present a special fashion show combining menswear and womenswear releases on Tuesday June 13th, 9 pm, at the Manifattura Tabacchi, a former tobacco factory.
In addition to Louboutin’s tournament, various events will be open to the public. Starting on the evening of June 12th when you’d better look to the sky where the Sonics, a renowned Italian team of gymnasts, acrobats and artisans, will exhibit in an acrobatic show titled “Meraviglia Water and Flames” at Piazza Pitti at 10 p.m. The event is sponsored by the Centro di Firenze per la Moda Italiana.
In Piazza della Signoria at the end of the Official Inauguration Ceremony, the morning of June 13, it may be possible to see an airdrop (demo jump) with flags, made by Military Paratroopers of the Italian Army.
During the same day at 6pm “Il Museo Effimero della Moda” (The Ephemeral Museum of Fashion), produced by the Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery in conjunction with the Gallerie degli Uffizi and the Parisian Museum of Fashion, Palais Galliera, will be inaugurated in the spaces of Galleria del Costume at Palazzo Pitti. The exhibition, open to the public until 22nd October 2017 is curated by Olivier Saillard, director of Palais Galliera. Eighteen rooms will showcase nearly two hundred items of clothing and accessories, dating from the mid-nineteenth century to the present and created by the world’s most prestigious dressmakers and fashion ateliers, including Roberto Capucci, Maison Vionnet, Elsa Schiaparelli, Gianfranco Ferré and Christian Lacroix. Contemporary fashions will also be well represented with selections from the latest collections by Gucci, Fendi, Armani, Valentino, Prada, John Galliano, Lanvin and many others.
Lanerossi, the historic brand belonging to the Italian textiles tradition, celebrates 200 years of business at the Limonaia of Villa Vittoria with an exhibition-event, entitled “The Red Thread of Ideas. Lanerossi 200 years” (from the 13th to the 16th of June). It is dedicated to the significant contribution of big names who have worked with the company since the Thirties, from painter and illustrator Adolfo Busi to photographer Ugo Mulas. The exhibition, sponsored by Filivivi and Marzotto, will also be staged at Pitti Filati.
Establishing an ideal bridge between Florence and Milan to reinforce the international image of Italy as a leader in men’s fashion, Via Montenapoleone, the luxury brand street in Milan, will host an open air photographic exhibition that celebrates masculine elegance during Pitti Uomo. “The Modern Man”, running from June 10 to 20, focuses for this first episode on the jacket. On the occasion of the Florentine trade show, a special totem will introduce to the public the exhibition.
The full program can be found at the site www.pittimmagine.com. (Celeste Giampietro Collins)